36 replies to this topic

[TheSUCKCrew]

Hey guys!
I just wanted to update you on my current electronics project.
A couple of days ago I bought a PIC programmer.



It came as a kit, so it took me a while to build it.
I had quite some problems with it, because the cable to connect it to my PC had to be very special, and there didn't come one with the set, nor could I buy one anywhere. So I had to make my own cable.
But about an hour ago, I got it to work.

What it does:
With this thing you can program a microchip, which you can then use in any circuit you can think up.
Microchips are rather cheap, and they can give the same result as an arduino.

Right now I'm still trying to figure out how to program it.
I also have some parts being shipped here for a LED-cube.
I wanna make one myself, I thought up many cool tricks for it too.
So yeah, I'll give you an update when I have one!

Ps: I know, this might not be very knex-related, but it might lead into something that is!

-Suck.

[LaMbChOpZ]

I've always wanted to make or at least see an LED Cube. I hope you can do it!

[kid26120]

I just can't see what is that green thing used for.
But I read you can program it, so I became interested, because I like programming
( language basic untill now).
So what is a PIC programmer?

[TheSUCKCrew]

I've always wanted to make or at least see an LED Cube. I hope you can do it!

Thanks! I'll make sure to give you guys some pictures and videos when it is done!

I just can't see what is that green thing used for.
But I read you can program it, so I became interested, because I like programming
( language basic untill now).
So what is a PIC programmer?

Haha, you were wrong there. The "green thing" aka a circuitboard, is there only to program a chip, which you can then take out and put it in a machine or a something. An arduino is practically just a chip with some easy connectors on it.

Another thing:
For the ledcube, I am still trying to figure out what the right size is.
I bought 300 leds, so the maximal size I can build is 6x6x6 leds.
As for the pins: I have some inventive way of using the electronics which allows me to use only a small amount of pins for a lot of leds. I have to use multiplexing in my code for that.
The formula for how many pins I need is the following:
pins = width(in leds) * dimensions.
since it is a cube, it has 3 dimensions, which leads to:

4x4x4 cube: 12 pins
5x5x5 cube: 15 pins
6x6x6 cube: 18 pins

There are some ways to save even more pins, which can be done from 6+ leds width.
That way I can save 3 more pins on the 6x6x6 cube. This does make the electronics a lot harder.

The chip I will be using has only 16 output pins, so I think the 6x6x6 cube is something I should rather not try.
But I don't know whether I'll build a 5x5x5 cube or a 4x4x4 cube.
A 4xcube saves me half of the leds, but with a 5x5x5 you can make much cooler movements.
Also, a 5x5x5 cube has a center-led, which also allows cooler movements.
But the programming on a 5x5x5 cube will be much harder.
So yeah, what should I do? Should I use the remaining 3 weeks it takes for the parts to ship to program an awesome code for the 5x5x5 cube, or should I take the easy way?

Edit: Oh, and 1 more thing: Never start using PIC programmers unless you are willing to spend days and days of googling and finding out how to get it working. It is really a lot of work, and therefor I recommend arduino to all of you, arduino is open source and there are way more tutorials online.

-Suck.

[LaMbChOpZ]

I say buy the 43 more you need to make a 7x7, but then that means you need more pins, so I don't know what you should do. If anything, a 5x5 would be good to start out with, ignoring the difficulty of it.


v That would be cool...

[TheSUCKCrew]

7x7x7 has never been an option. Controlling 343 leds is way past my interrest in this project.

There is also this other thing I am thinking about... does it have to be a cube? Or would it also be cool if I would build like a 5x5x9 thing?

[floris2burn]

I don't think it has to be a cube.
It could be pretty cool if you could make a 3D-like text screen or something.

Also, the difference with PIC and Arduino is that the latter has circuitboards that allow you to use the microcontroller without any additional things.

PIC is indeed cheaper, but not meant as an introduction to basic electronics and microcontrollers.
However, PIC has the advantage that if you know how it all works, you can make very compact circuit boards.

[TheSUCKCrew]

Still strugling with this. It is very hard to control, but I now get how the outputs work. I do not get the inputs to work, but I will just keep trying. I think I might have ruined my PIC, actually I'm pretty sure of that. Some pins broke off while removing IC. I bought 3 new ones though, so I should be good. I hope they arrive soon, togheter with the leds for this project.

The ledcube will probably be controlled with Arduino after all. The coding for 125 leds is pretty big, and a PIC doesn't have much space. I might do some coaster-automation with this thing though. I'll see.

[TheSUCKCrew]

Today there was something in the mail for me!
A LOT of electronics. And for a very cheap price.

Overview:


100 transistors for €3,00 and 25 resistor-arrays for €1,00


4 IC's and some DC plugs, 10 for €1,10


Some IC-footers €1,00 for 13



300 leds for €5,55, yeah, that is cheap stuff!



40x 40pins female headers for €2,00 (!!!)


50x 40pins male headers for €1,90 (!!!), supercheap once more.



Also bought some DIP switches and voltage regulators. The regulators weren't deliverd though.

And that is why electronics do not need to be expensive at all

[TheSUCKCrew]

So I am now learning the Assembler Language, which I use for programming my PIC's.
This way of coding is way more complicated, but pretty fun to do.
What I made is a program for a LED-sign.

;******CONSTANTS******

STATUS equ 03h
TRISA equ 85h
TRISB equ 86h
PORTA equ 05h
PORTB equ 06h
COUNT1 equ 20h
COUNT2 equ 21h
CMCON equ 1Fh
REPEATS equ    22h
W    equ    00h

;******PORTS*******
    bsf        STATUS,5  ;Go to Bank 1
    MOVLW    B'00000000' ;Set all PORTB to outputs
    MOVWF    TRISB 
    MOVLW    B'11111111' ;Set all PORTA to inputs
    MOVWF    TRISA
    MOVLW    B'11010111' ;Load options for the PIC
    MOVWF    81h
    bcf        STATUS,5 ;Go back to Bank 0

;***PIC settings**
        MOVLW    B'00000111' ;Turn the Comparator module off
        MOVWF    CMCON
_BODEN_ON                    EQU     H'3FFF' ;Some other settings
_BODEN_OFF                   EQU     H'3FBF'
_CP_ALL                      EQU     H'03FF'
_CP_75                       EQU     H'17FF'
_CP_50                       EQU     H'2BFF'
_CP_OFF                      EQU     H'3FFF'
_DATA_CP_ON                  EQU     H'3EFF'
_DATA_CP_OFF                 EQU     H'3FFF'
_PWRTE_OFF                   EQU     H'3FFF'
_PWRTE_ON                    EQU     H'3FF7'
_WDT_ON                      EQU     H'3FFF'
_WDT_OFF                     EQU     H'3FFB'
_LVP_ON                      EQU     H'3FFF'
_LVP_OFF                     EQU     H'3F7F'
_MCLRE_ON                    EQU     H'3FFF'
_MCLRE_OFF                   EQU     H'3FDF'
_ER_OSC_CLKOUT               EQU     H'3FFF'
_ER_OSC_NOCLKOUT             EQU     H'3FFE'
_INTRC_OSC_CLKOUT            EQU     H'3FFD'
_INTRC_OSC_NOCLKOUT          EQU     H'3FFC'
_EXTCLK_OSC                  EQU     H'3FEF'
_LP_OSC                      EQU     H'3FEC'
_XT_OSC                      EQU     H'3FED'
_HS_OSC                      EQU     H'3FEE'
 __CONFIG        _BODEN_ON & _CP_OFF & _DATA_CP_OFF & _PWRTE_ON & _WDT_OFF & _LVP_OFF & _MCLRE_ON & _XT_OSC
    
                GOTO Program
                
;***Main loop***
Program    CLRF    PORTB ;Turn all leds off
        MOVLW    D'10'
        MOVWF    REPEATS
Label1    CALL    INVERT ;Invert all leds: If they were on, they will go off and vice versa
        DECFSZ    REPEATS,1 ;Do that 10 times
        GOTO    Label1
        MOVLW    D'5'
        MOVWF    REPEATS
        CLRF    PORTB
Label2    CALL    UPDOWN ;Now let the leds go night-rider style
        DECFSZ    REPEATS,1 ;Do that 5 times
        GOTO    Label2
        MOVLW    B'00101010'  ;Now turn the leds alternately on
        MOVWF    PORTB
        MOVLW    D'30'
        MOVWF    REPEATS
Label3    CALL    INVERT ;Invert all leds
        DECFSZ    REPEATS,1 ;Do this 30 times
        GOTO    Label3
        CLRF    PORTB ;Turn all leds off
        COMF    PORTB,1 ;And immediately invert this
        MOVLW    D'10'
        MOVWF    REPEATS
Label4    CALL    DELAY_ROUTINE ;Let them stay on for a while
        DECFSZ    REPEATS,1
        GOTO    Label4
        
        goto    Program ;And go back to the beginning
        
        
;***UPDOWN routine****
UPDOWN    BSF        PORTB,0
Point1    BTFSC    PORTB,5
        GOTO     Point2
        RLF        PORTB,1
        BCF        PORTB,0
        CALL    DELAY_ROUTINE
        GOTO    Point1
Point2    BTFSC    PORTB,0
        return
        RRF        PORTB,1
        BCF        PORTB,7
        CALL    DELAY_ROUTINE
        GOTO    Point2
    return
    
;*****ONOFF routine****
INVERT    COMF    PORTB,1
        CALL    DELAY_ROUTINE
        CALL    DELAY_ROUTINE
    return
        
        
        
;***Delayloop****

DELAY_ROUTINE   MOVLW   D'255'
                MOVWF   COUNT2
DEL_LOOP1       MOVLW   D'255'
                MOVWF   COUNT1
DEL_LOOP2        DECFSZ  COUNT1,1
                GOTO    DEL_LOOP2
                DECFSZ  COUNT2,1
                GOTO    DEL_LOOP1
    return
            
    GOTO Program
    END

I'm gonna add some more features, but so far I think it is going pretty great.
I have also been experimenting with inputs, and that is working out fine too.
Maybe I will automate a coaster with this later on.

[Maxlaam]

-snip-

Totally worth it because of the prices, but I love the service in the store at my town. Besides, the guys know me there, so having a chat is always nice.

Nope, you can't convert me yet

The programming language reminds me of Basic or Pascal...

[TheSUCKCrew]

Not trying to convert you anymore. I gave that up a long time ago;)


So, there is this project I have been working on. It is a driver for a light-sign (like on Looping Star). It is standalone, features 12 outputs (500mA each) and is very compact.
I might sell these, if enough people are willing to buy.
Here are some pics of the result:







I will add a testvideo soon, but I have already tested it and it is functional!

[Maxlaam]

Half size of the Mega, AWESOME!

[TheSUCKCrew]

Thanks for all the comments guys! [/sarcasm]

Well, atleast I got 1 comment;)
So here is the testvideo I promised, maybe my awesome Dunglish will get some more comments.

[Maxlaam]

So everything works at 5V? Any way to increase the output voltage to 12V? Makes it more versatile.

Btw, this is just about the speed I want for the one I ordered. And now I edit this post I came to my senses and realised that I got loads of A's left on my 5V line but not so much on my 12V line I need to do some calculations first before I order, though

[TheSUCKCrew]

Sure, I have a bunch of voltageregulators laying around. Since this is only a prototype, I made it myself easy and just made the output-voltage equal to the PIC input. If I add a voltageregulator, I can just give the PIC it's required voltage while the outputs can be up to 30V.

[Maxlaam]

Awesome, I'll let you know!

[maarten12]

I'm not sure whether I got it correct, but can you make a more variable program for the LEDs? Like the one on Looping Star that had about 8 (?) different programs.
I would really like to buy one if you can get the output voltage at 12 V. Any idea about the price so far ?

[TheSUCKCrew]

^ Yes, I can make different programs. This module has cost me €8 to make. If you want it to work with 12V, it will be a bit more expensive. I'm gonna try etching PCB's this week, and if this works, I will directly make a prototype with this etched PCB.

For those of you who are interested:

Give me the following specifications of what you want it to do:
*How many channels do you want it to have? (1-13)
*Do you want it with voltage regulator, so it can handle voltages from 5-25 Volts?
*Do you want the blue screwterminals for or are you ok with regular headers?
*Do you have any special requirements? For instance: Do you want an on/off switch or a speedcontroller or a button to switch through different programs?
*Are you going to solder it yourself, or do you want me to do it for you?
*Do you want a specific program for it, or are you okay with the default program? (Note: I have not yet finished this program, but I will post a video soon)
If not: Post the program you wish to have like this:

Spoiler

000001000
000010000
000100000
001000000
010000000
100000000
111111111
000000000
111111111
000000000
100000000
110000000
111000000
111100000
111110000
111111000
111111100
111111110
111111111

Based on this, I will make up a price for you.
Note: I have practically no profit on this. So don't expect me to have everything done within a day.

[TheSUCKCrew]

So I have recently learned about a technique to allow 3 states to be read on 1 digital pin. This is how it works:

You have a pin, connected to a header, and connected to a capacitor which is connected to ground. You will have 1 header at each side of the header that is connected to the pin. 1 of those is 5V, one of those is GND.
There are 3 states to be read: Not Connected, GND, and 5V.

First you want to read the NC state. You do this by setting the pin to output first, and then driving it high. After that, you set it to input. If you read high, you will go to the next step. Which is setting the pin back to output and drive it low. After that you set the pin to input and if you read 0, you know that it is not connected.

The other states are fairly simple. Read the pin, if it is low it is connected to ground, if it is high it is connected to 5V.


So what can I do with this, you may ask. Well, I can use this to give you multiple possibilities for your programs. For instance, 1 program with only 6 outputs, 1 program with 8, and 1 with 12. Or 3 programs that have a completely other sequence. This means that you will have a 3-in-1 light-sign driver!