Wipeout - First Coaster
#1
Posted 24 April 2020 - 03:07 PM
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#2
Posted 24 April 2020 - 04:48 PM
Looks really good! Some sharp spots here and there, and it's very under-supported, but nothing that isn't an easy fix. Add some supports and you can likely make that cobra roll quite a bit bigger.
#3
Posted 24 April 2020 - 05:04 PM
looks good so far, just do i tell most other newer members, looks up heart lining and a small bit on gforces and you shouldn't have to many issues. getting good heart lining in my opinion makes rides look so much better, so the exit to the 2nd inversion there should look a bit more like this. imagine it like rotating the track and train around a 360 degree axis where the heart of an adult or head level of a younger person would sit as the central point of a coasters twist.
Attached Files
#4
Posted 25 April 2020 - 02:51 AM
I wish my first costum ride looked like this.. It's impressive!
For any tips, i could add some more supports. And if you want to the immelman ''drop'' may drop a litle faster and sooner.
#5
Posted 25 April 2020 - 04:06 PM
Looks really good! Some sharp spots here and there, and it's very under-supported, but nothing that isn't an easy fix. Add some supports and you can likely make that cobra roll quite a bit bigger.
Thanks! I agree that I need to add more supports the rigidity isn't nearly where i would like it to be. This actually started off as a "box support" project but i slowly started converting it to tube supports as i feel it makes it look less congested. Your comment regarding the cobra roll got me thinking with stronger supports i could likely decrease the overall height a bit which in turn should increase the rigidity. Do you have any suggestions as far as "track strengtheners"? right now i am only using 3 grey rods (straightish sections) and 3 flexies staggered @ 7 crossties per 7.5" rod. and 3 track tubes (where i can until i get my ebay orders in).
looks good so far, just do i tell most other newer members, looks up heart lining and a small bit on gforces and you shouldn't have to many issues. getting good heart lining in my opinion makes rides look so much better, so the exit to the 2nd inversion there should look a bit more like this. imagine it like rotating the track and train around a 360 degree axis where the heart of an adult or head level of a younger person would sit as the central point of a coasters twist.
Thanks! Yeah its hard to get those heart line just right. i have tried using the small black rod end connector pieces in the outside of the cross-ties to help assist the rotation but when i do that I feel it loses too much rigidity. How would you suggest achieving that much axial rotation while maintaining structural rigidity?
I wish my first costum ride looked like this.. It's impressive!
For any tips, i could add some more supports. And if you want to the immelman ''drop'' may drop a litle faster and sooner.
Thanks!!! Honestly, this is a perfect time to use my favorite quote from the person who made all this possible,"If I have seen further than others, it is by standing on the shoulders of giants" - Sir. Issac Newton.
The wealth of knowledge that this community has created is defiantly a HUGE factor in how i was able to get my first custom coaster (not complete) to look somewhat decent. I was going to wait to post my project once it was completed but after noticing (while on the site researching ideas) that the site seems to becoming active again I decided to try and get involved.
The comment about the immelman "drop" is a great idea. I'm just not sure if by having that long of a flat section leading into cobra roll I would conserve enough energy to successfully navigate that element. What are your thoughts?
#6
Posted 26 April 2020 - 03:21 AM
I think a lot of builders make a preliminary track shape they are happy with - and then build the supports around it.
What you've got is good, especially for a first time build - there are a few things to be improved, but the supports are definitely the biggest issue. I'd say get a tube support connected every 1-1.5 Grey/Flexi rod's length of track. The top of the loop is probably an exception, but the pull in and pull out could do with another support.
With heartlining, as I said I think a lot of people build it around the heartline and then support it where it stands, so the immelmann looks like it's heartlining is far off, rotating around the center of the crosstie. Maybe try and look length wise down that rotation, and imagine the heartline, detrack the crossties and manipulate it until you get a transition you're happier with, and then attach the supports to it again where it now stands.
Good luck!!
p.s. I find a good way to see heartlining is to look inside NoLimits (if you own it) you can study a model from any angle you want, and then even turn on a visible heartline.
#7
Posted 26 April 2020 - 10:47 AM
I think a lot of builders make a preliminary track shape they are happy with - and then build the supports around it.
What you've got is good, especially for a first time build - there are a few things to be improved, but the supports are definitely the biggest issue. I'd say get a tube support connected every 1-1.5 Grey/Flexi rod's length of track. The top of the loop is probably an exception, but the pull in and pull out could do with another support.
With heartlining, as I said I think a lot of people build it around the heartline and then support it where it stands, so the immelmann looks like it's heartlining is far off, rotating around the center of the crosstie. Maybe try and look length wise down that rotation, and imagine the heartline, detrack the crossties and manipulate it until you get a transition you're happier with, and then attach the supports to it again where it now stands.
Good luck!!
p.s. I find a good way to see heartlining is to look inside NoLimits (if you own it) you can study a model from any angle you want, and then even turn on a visible heartline.
yh a good way i use to to only have the center tubing on without any flexies or anything, and get the shaping right for twist and heartlining with that, when you add the flexies you can then streanthn the track and get a bit more shaping right and the final stage addingt he track fixes most of it
#8
Posted 26 April 2020 - 07:53 PM
Thanks! I agree that I need to add more supports the rigidity isn't nearly where i would like it to be. This actually started off as a "box support" project but i slowly started converting it to tube supports as i feel it makes it look less congested. Your comment regarding the cobra roll got me thinking with stronger supports i could likely decrease the overall height a bit which in turn should increase the rigidity. Do you have any suggestions as far as "track strengtheners"? right now i am only using 3 grey rods (straightish sections) and 3 flexies staggered @ 7 crossties per 7.5" rod. and 3 track tubes (where i can until i get my ebay orders in).
It's tough to strengthen the track itself, but I tend to use red rods where the track isn't twisting too quickly. You can also use gray clips (the one's with two connection points) to add another flexi to each side. On my accelerator coaster I use the gray clip method to support the top hat (5 flexis total), and the rest of the coaster uses 3 red rods. https://www.youtube....h?v=O9oMJK2B_H0
If you watch one of the later videos, though, you'll notice my supports are placed 2 to 3 red rods apart. That really is your biggest issue, you need more supports. Horizontal bracing goes a long way too. Unless it's a foot off of the ground, every vertical column should have a diagonal cross brace.
Good luck!
#9
Posted 27 April 2020 - 12:02 AM
It's tough to strengthen the track itself, but I tend to use red rods where the track isn't twisting too quickly. You can also use gray clips (the one's with two connection points) to add another flexi to each side. On my accelerator coaster I use the gray clip method to support the top hat (5 flexis total), and the rest of the coaster uses 3 red rods. https://www.youtube....h?v=O9oMJK2B_H0
If you watch one of the later videos, though, you'll notice my supports are placed 2 to 3 red rods apart. That really is your biggest issue, you need more supports. Horizontal bracing goes a long way too. Unless it's a foot off of the ground, every vertical column should have a diagonal cross brace.
Good luck!
love that recreation man, ive seen the vids, any updates soon ?
#10
Posted 20 May 2020 - 11:52 AM
After the realization that it was going to take longer to strengthen the existing design/layout I decided to start over while retaining the cobra roll with corkscrew exit.
Still need to add support to the loop, turn and drop.
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#11
Posted 20 May 2020 - 04:23 PM
ooo not bad, looks good, i think just make the bottom of the drops and inbetween loop and bank a bit less sharp and that will be nice
#12
Posted 20 May 2020 - 08:59 PM
I like the new layout a lot better! But yeah, the pullout of the first drop looks really sharp, and then the track is super straight until it reaches the loop. But a little bit of re-profiling at the bottom of the elements should take care of the issues. The not-quite-overbanked turn looks cool too.
#13
Posted 20 May 2020 - 11:47 PM
Looks pretty good! The overbank is nice and this layout is a lot better. Like the others said, try to smooth out the bottoms of the elements so they have more of a constant curve. The entrance to the loop could also use some work to match the exit more, which is very smooth!
#14
Posted 21 May 2020 - 07:42 AM
Decided to "finish" the layout, before I decide to start over again Haha, then come back and adjust everything. Johnny's ball bearing trains definitely open up new possibilities for the next one! still more to come.
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#15
Posted 21 May 2020 - 11:54 PM
#16
Posted 26 May 2020 - 01:52 PM
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Overbanked the overbanked turn and started adjusting the pull in / pull out.
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Maxed out the height / started shaping the zero-g-roll
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Still have a quite a bit of adjusting and would like to reshape the cobra roll / corkscrew then add some bunny hills or a helix to the finish.
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#17
Posted 26 May 2020 - 03:38 PM
hello there. I'm CrayCray for Coasters and i truly am
#18
Posted 26 May 2020 - 05:43 PM
nice, looking good, makes me wana do a nice custom looper after i finish my rmc
#19
Posted 26 May 2020 - 06:00 PM
Bottom of the first drop look WAY better. Interested to see what you do with the cobra roll. Will you bring the middle down a bit, or turn it into a Steel Curtain- like banana roll?
#20
Posted 27 May 2020 - 02:05 PM
the puul-out does need a bit more smoothing though
hello there. I'm CrayCray for Coasters and i truly am