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I305(trackless pics)


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#81 Legoguy1395

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Posted 27 April 2011 - 07:51 PM

Do what they say and make the 1st turn go downwards some. Thats about what I can think of.

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#82 Old_Hag

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Posted 27 April 2011 - 09:00 PM

Multiple fist pumps were had in the past 2 hours. What I did was pick out some of the dirt with a toothpick, relube, and then run it over the course, and then wipe off the track. I repeated this process several times. Then a 4 car train made it over the hill with 1 battery. Fist pump 1. Then it made it over twice in a row. Fist pump 2. Then it made it over unweighted. Fist pump 3.


Needless to say, I got pretty worried before the fix, especially when a 5 car train with 4 batteries didn't make it over (seriously). I'm still kinda worried right now and I hope this speed will keep up (unweighted 4 car train still doesn't make it over consistently, but it has about 40-50% of the time).

EDIT 4/28/11:
I made a couple extra connections on weak parts of the pullout/pullin of the 2nd hill, and it consistently makes it over unweighted now. Keep in mind that when this is (hopefully) completed it will be weighted and get a boost from a fairly fast lift.
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From the "Eiffel Tower" (aka standing on top of a couch)
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Test, unweighted:
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#83 scott

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Posted 28 April 2011 - 06:02 PM

Glad it makes it now, now just get more parts!

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#84 Maxlaam

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Posted 28 April 2011 - 06:13 PM

You'd be surprised how much the track's condition affects the ride's speed. Regularly clean your track, a damp cloth is good enough to remove dust and oil spillage. The combination of oil and dust is killer as it will stick to your wheels.


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#85 alpal

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Posted 28 April 2011 - 07:29 PM

Agreed. I learned while the Variety show (Wolverine Wildcat was presented there) was going on that you have to regularly wipe down the track to keep the speed up.
Edit: Why are you so concerned with not using weights?

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#86 Old_Hag

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Posted 28 April 2011 - 07:59 PM

I dunno, I guess I'm paranoid about speed.


#87 Blackkitty

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Posted 28 April 2011 - 08:03 PM

You should upgrade to testing with a 6-car train (you will use one right?).

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#88 ForgotToGrowUp

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Posted 28 April 2011 - 09:57 PM

If you have pets, hair can be a real speed killer if it gets on the track and worse once the wheels pick it up.

I think the lighter train may be why he is having more success than others who have built turns like this.

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#89 pkiknex25

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Posted 28 April 2011 - 10:25 PM

^ Agreed. Generally, a weighted train will benefit a coaster with a lot of vertical change, such as Diamondback. However, that weight will kill speed in turns if the track isn't supported extremely well.

I would just test to see how much weight works best for you. I wouldn't do it now, probably when you get to the dreaded 3rd hill.

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#90 Old_Hag

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Posted 02 May 2011 - 03:13 PM

Okay guys, since I'm still waiting for more pieces, I've decided to try and spray paint my cars somewhat like this picture:
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The thing is, how should I go about this? I know I'd have to cover up part of the train with tape in order to put on the red stripes (unless that doesn't work or is there a better way?).
Also, what spray paint should I use?


#91 Kevyn230

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Posted 02 May 2011 - 03:21 PM

^ You could paint brush the stripes on using the paint you use for model planes and all that.


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#92 Jumpge

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Posted 02 May 2011 - 04:18 PM

To paint your cars properly like those of Intimidator 305's, I would work my way up covering the paint and painting, then waiting until the trains completely dry. First, add the silver paint by putting masking tape on the border of where the paint will end, then paint that on the front, back, and sides of the train. Once that Completely dries, cover up that paint with masking tape as well, and make another border where the red line will be and spray paint that with red. Once that dries, just cover the red line and the silver paint and paint the top of the train black. Once that is done, you can probably make an outline for the back of the seats out of cardboard and tape that onto the train and spray paint that red with your remaining red paint.
The paint that I use is stuff that you can find at a hardware store that generally is regular spray paint. The best stuff that works better specifically says that it works on Plastic which you can read on the label, or on the back of the can's detailed print.


Hope this helps!

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#93 ickus305

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Posted 02 May 2011 - 04:36 PM

Two things to consider when painting your cars.
1, to paint different colors, start with your base colour first and paint everything that colour. Then once things are dry mask off that section and then paint the next colour mask again, and apply the next colour (usually go from light colours to dark colours) Then once all colours are applied then you can remove all the tape, and expose the colours below (also remember you probably need more than 1 coat for each colour).

Or paint a base colour and then grab a paint brush and do the details of the other colours.

2. Do you want this to be a permanent or able to remove paint job?
If you want to possible remove the paint at some point (go to any store that sells spray paint (such as that dreaded Wal-mart)) and grab the colours you want and paint away. (though remember this paint job can and will scratch and chip!)
If you want a permanent paint job look for an acetone based paint. (hobby shops carry it for paint LEXAN, (such as RC car and plan bodies)). This paint does not just cover the plastic but bonds with the plastic and becomes permanent. (I have dropped, crashed, etc etc, my things painted with this paint and it very rarely chips or scratches).

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#94 ForgotToGrowUp

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Posted 02 May 2011 - 08:11 PM

great advice so far that pretty much describes what I do. Only things I can add are...

If you are painting metallic colors bright colors underneath them make the paint look deeper. Silver and gold work great, white is good too and other bright colors like yellow and orange can make neat affects.

Hobby shops sell small masking tapes in 1mm increments of width, great for striping.

Acetone paints are great but they have strong vapors, you DO NOT want to use these indoors. I use Testors modeling paint because it is easy to find, relatively cheap and a lot less toxic and bad smelling than others. You still want to find the most ventilated place you can to spray any paint. I also recommend using a large card board box as a spray booth.

Always spray many thin coats, every drip mark is a sign of impatience (it's very easy to want to put on too much paint at a time)

Putting a couple of clear coats will make any paint look better and last long.

Finally, once painted be careful when lubing cars, the propellants in most spray lubes will dissolve most paints.

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#95 Old_Hag

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Posted 04 May 2011 - 05:33 PM

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I think it looks nice.

I will add the silver and red lines on the bottom of the train later, and I'll probably have to brush that on instead of spray painting it.

Oh, the last car's wheel assembly would not unscrew, so I couldn't paint that...and that means, unless the speed demands it, I'll have to use a 4 car train for this ride. 5 cars look fine running on the track, but 6 cars is way too long for the size of the coaster.


#96 A.S.C.

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Posted 04 May 2011 - 07:21 PM

That looks awesome! Are you going to make the stripes on the seats too?


#97 chaindogg33

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Posted 04 May 2011 - 07:23 PM

A little off topic, but i had to do it for all those who have never ridden this coaster before (including me). I love the layout and i hope you can pull this off, it will be amazing. Great looking so far!

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#98 Maxlaam

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Posted 04 May 2011 - 08:09 PM

That black layer came out very well!


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#99 Old_Hag

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Posted 07 May 2011 - 05:51 PM

I will say that this is probably mediocre at best, being the first thing I've ever really painted. The paint found a way to get under the tape at some places. Nonetheless...
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#100 Knexrule11

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Posted 07 May 2011 - 05:55 PM

That acually looks amazing! I would recommend making harnesses like in Sucks tut. I think that will make it look even better.

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