Phase 3.0 - Wiring the cabinet
#81
Posted 04 January 2012 - 09:24 AM
6 Sub-D cables (25 poles), motors, sensors, lights and the control panel.
The dust covers have names on them so you know what cable goes where.
Extremely ugly case fan for air intake on the right, also a switch on the top right that triggers a led strip when the doors are opened, just so you can see what you are doing as suggested by Floris2Burn
E-stop relay card, once the e-stop is pressed the power will be cut to all the motors, once you reset the e-stop button you just have to press the reset button to make it work again.
8 relays with indicator lights, used to power 8 motors.
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#82
Posted 04 January 2012 - 04:09 PM
Oh, and you know that I really like these updates. Nice work on the sub-D's.
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#83
Posted 04 January 2012 - 04:11 PM
#84
Posted 04 January 2012 - 04:27 PM
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#85
Posted 04 January 2012 - 08:17 PM
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#86
Posted 09 January 2012 - 11:46 AM
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#87
Posted 10 January 2012 - 04:28 PM
By popular demand, the back of the control panel:
Wired really nicely!
I'm impressed.
#88
Posted 10 January 2012 - 04:40 PM
I still don't get how these buttons work, because it seems to be they are a lot more complex to install than the simple ones I'm using on my control panel.
For example, what or those white with green number rectangular shaped things?
#89
Posted 10 January 2012 - 05:01 PM
Wired really nicely!
I'm impressed.
Is it that good?
Looks very clean to me.
I still don't get how these buttons work, because it seems to be they are a lot more complex to install than the simple ones I'm using on my control panel.
For example, what or those white with green number rectangular shaped things?
I thought it was quite clear from the "mini tutorial" I posted on page one and the wires coming out from them as seen here But I don't mind saying it again
Each button consists of 3 main parts, the button, an adapter and a contact element (or LED element) The button is what you press, however there are no electrical connections in/on the button part, it does however have a few plastic rods poking out on both sides from the bottom. Therefore you need an adapter, this will form the bridge to a contact element or light element.
The contact element is where you attach the wires and where the electrical connection is made or broken. When the button is pressed the plastic rods will push down the lever on the contact element, thus forming or breaking the connection between the 2 screw terminals.
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#90
Posted 10 January 2012 - 06:53 PM
#91
Posted 11 January 2012 - 09:45 AM
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#92
Posted 11 January 2012 - 03:54 PM
Is it that good?
Depends how highly you view my judgement..
But yeah, it's very good. The connectors on the wiring, and the general organisation.. looks good!
#93
Posted 04 March 2012 - 06:59 PM
Video:
Sorry for the quality, I wasn't using my HD camera and halfway through the vid my memory card was full and a couple moments later my battery went almost flat. Camera work isn't the best either.
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#94
Posted 04 March 2012 - 07:09 PM
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#95
Posted 04 March 2012 - 08:45 PM
~Intamin Thrill Rides~
1. Intimidator 305 2. Fury 325 3. Skyrush 4. Outlaw Run 5. El Toro 6. Banshee 7. Nitro 8. Magnum 9. Iron Rattler 10. Storm Runner
#96
Posted 05 March 2012 - 10:34 AM
It looks really good and organized! I also like the lights on the bottom left.
Thanks, just wait till those lights are actually hooked up
That is very impressive Max! Very organised and looks very interesting. Cant wait to see more!
Stay tuned
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#97
Posted 06 March 2012 - 07:12 PM
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#98
Posted 12 June 2012 - 04:55 PM
I also found that I made a mistake in the Sensor and Button circuit boards. I had the +5v and ground hooked up wrong. I fixed those.
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#99
Posted 13 June 2012 - 04:55 PM
Tiny update:
These are my sensors, Jogumpie uses the same for his project, they are reed-switches with a plastic housing. I used green shrink tubing to make them look more like actual sensors. Ya know, the little green boxes on the track. There's two in the picture, one connected and one that isn't connected. They are at about the same height as the top of the rails, which makes it perfect, even when next to a booster wheel. That was my only concern really, making a sensor housing that would fit alongside a booster wheel...
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#100
Posted 20 June 2012 - 07:22 AM
First we have this (oh my...):
And we fit it like this:
It turned out a bit messier than I originally expected but it hooking up was a breeze, just a few tight spots...
(Just noticed, bottom middle, the 2 yellow 12V lines aren't actually hooked up to the PSU yet, fixing!!)
The only wiring still to do is for a few uplighting LED's but those will be done when everything else is working... Now I'm off to making a grafcet for the coding
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