67 replies to this topic

[Rollerfreak987]

Get rid of the 3 yellow rods. They look bad.

[Jogumpie]

That should make coming up with a design much easier, right?

[william0510]

/\ No doubt! UPDATE So I made part of the lift and the curve from the temporary station. I might make a fly-by station but I'll see what happens. Anyways, here's the pictures!

[DDRman732865]

Alright, you're already running into basic problems with base rods. The way you have it is going to cause a deformed structure. I'll try to explain;

K'nex is structured off of 2 base rod lengths. Combinations of the same base length rod can be used as a hypotenuse for the the other base rod length. For example, a white rod can be used as a 45 degree hypotenuse for 2 small green rods, a blue rod can be the hypotenuse for 2 white rods, yellow for 2 blue, red for 2 yellow, gray for 2 red. Also, 2 blue rods can make a red rod, so that hypotenuse can be used for 2 yellow rods. You always want to build with triangles, because that makes the structure most sound and sturdy.

The way you have it now, your structure is weak as all hell. The problem is you're combining base rods. You should ONLY use red, blue and little green rods as diagonals for the main base rod, which is your granites (and by relation of size, white and gray). So for all 3D axis connections, use your base granite rod, and for all diagonals, use the appropriate diagonal length.

Here is a pic of what I mean:


Notice I use a couple of hypotenuse combinations, but I always maintain the base rod horizontally.

[Rollerfreak987]

agreed^. Make the upwards structure like the lift structure of hrrr. Don't go up a green if you made your base granites. Go up a granite, so that your structure is the same! Just thought I'd put it into simpler terms.

[william0510]

Wait... So just go up in granites? I just got like SUPER confused there.

[Rollerfreak987]

I tried to make it simpler. But yes, or grays will work. Just make sure you keep your rod type the same thoughout.

[Zem]

A better example of what DDR was speaking of is this type of support structure. Keep the diagonals based off of green/blue rods and keep the base structure off of granites and greys. Try not to mix the two because this leads to a very weak support structure like you have there. I would also recommend using granites instead of greys and add green diagonals. Also, try making a base structure for the ride that is 1 granite high so that you structure has a strong foundation.

[william0510]

/\ Yup, I'm working on it right now . It is definitely a LOT sturdier than before! Thanks for the help guys!

[Zem]

^ I just edited my post with more information. You may want to re-read it.

[william0510]

UPDATE Ok, so before I cut the middle tubing for the lift hill (Yea I know it's red...) any problems?

[iggfish123]

Why didn't you connect the 2 parts in the last picture?
Imo, you need to support your crest more. I would also suggest mirroring each side of the crest more. In other words, connect the track on each side of the crest to the same, or a similar connection on the other side. You need to support the track on both sides of the gears, so push the track to the left, and support it using the connection that u currently are using to hold the gears.

[jp95]

why don't you make the underground in a box. it's much stronger than. you also can underground than.

[Zem]

I agree with JP on that. You could build a base of 1 granite high below your coaster which would make it much more stable. Also you should add some lateral supports to the structure and you should connect that diagonal bit at the front to the lift supports. It is looking good so far but you need to fix your crest and pull in by adding some more connection. I personally over connect the track to my supports with a ton of connections to make is stronger and lessen the loss of speed.

[-=TK=-]

why don't you make the underground in a box. it's much stronger than. you also can underground than.

I agree with JP on that. You could build a base of 1 granite high below your coaster which would make it much more stable. Also you should add some lateral supports to the structure and you should connect that diagonal bit at the front to the lift supports. It is looking good so far but you need to fix your crest and pull in by adding some more connection. I personally over connect the track to my supports with a ton of connections to make is stronger and lessen the loss of speed.

I disagree. I don't know how much knex you've got but building a 10×10 base of 1 heights just eats you're tubs empty. Only if you've got enough for sure you could do that. I do agree that adding diagonals strenghtens you're supports very much.
Just one basic tip: more connections is always useful, if you could succeed in making 3 connections per green flexible your coaster will run much more track than with only 1 connection, or sometimes even none. For shape, I don't really know I'm not the eurofighter type. If I make one, I always ask Tom to help me with the shape . I guess it looks fine but than I'm not good at it so ask someone else for better tips. Good luck in the contest.

-=tK=-

[Zem]

Also, one thing I would recommned you do is make the turn into the lift smaller so you will have more room for your pullout. As is, it seems that you will have very little space to fit it in. Any plans for the layout as of yet? ^ The base structure I am using on my winter coaster uses very few granites. It uses almost entirely greys, greens, and halfmoons.

[william0510]

Ok so an update. I know the drop has a lot of bumps. How should I fix them? I supported the crest of the hill more. Pictures

[CW5X]

I don't have any problem with the height because I did something very similar with my coaster The Wire but on that I had a vertical drop which helped smooth things out a bit and fit it in a small space. (My original goal for that coaster was a 5X5 base but it kinda spread out a bit.) It wasn't perfect but it was smoother than that. Anyway I know you don't want to exactly copy it so I think here it's a connection to the supports that's causing the problem. It kinda turns to the right and then jolts back left again half way down so that might need some fiddling with.

[william0510]

/\ I've been working with it and its getting smoother! I hope it gets like SUPER smooth

[-=TK=-]

I can spot some bumps at the point that you are using the brown ladder connectors to connect the flexi-rods with each other. I would advice you to layer your flexis, that would make it already way smoother

-=Tk=-