Basilisk Rail (final video)
#41
Posted 22 December 2010 - 06:09 PM
I want to do a first drop like that of Steel Phantom (Phantom's Revenge).
Though I know the angle of the lift is steeper.
Also, how far should I go to put in the gears in to end the chain pull? I figure more or less after that point is where I will start the curve to bring the drop 180 degrees for the turn. I will see how it looks when I get to that point. For now just concerned about getting over the top.
Of course more pictures.
I also think I have the layout figured out:
I want to do an extremely modified version of the old Steel Phantom. (I will not have a 100 foot ravine to go down or a wooden coaster to cut thru). So the layout will be a taller lift (phantoms second drop was ~255 feet, my lift at 1/36 scale will be around 200 feet) with a 180 degree twisting drop a small flat run at the base of the drop (like Phantom), and then (skipping the air hill into the ravine) into a loop, into a batwing, a banking curve into a corkscrew, and then either an over bank, or maybe possibly a helix (Phantom kinda randomly turned to the right at the end), into a the pre-station. This layout should provide some interesting features and also keep the footprint compact enough to fit into the footprint of the coaster that will be removed).
#42
Posted 22 December 2010 - 06:13 PM
#43
Posted 22 December 2010 - 09:17 PM
The trains are amazing tho, nice work.
Did you get the name from world of warcraft?
#44
Posted 22 December 2010 - 09:45 PM
#45
Posted 22 December 2010 - 10:02 PM
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#46
Posted 23 December 2010 - 12:45 AM
As for the trains making it over the crest, I am not worried about it. I will have the front car chain dog, and then I will be adding a chain dog on car 3 and also car 5. This will be to help ensure the trains always catch the chains. (My current coaster the front car chain dog will stick and not always grab, this has happened to all of the different cars overtime that I have used.) I will have a small section of chain in the pre-station, in the station, and also just before the lift, to help make sure the trains do not get stuck in the "slow" areas.
I have parts, just not always enough of the parts I want. Things such as red rods I was struggling with and I am also worried about not having enough black cross ties.
The train names come from Robin Hobb- The Dragon Keeper.
#47
Posted 24 December 2010 - 02:59 PM
Happy Holidays to everyone.
As a present to myself, I moved the lift into the lobby for the day, and rebuilt the crest of the hill. I hope this looks better. I am much happier with the shape of it now.
Angle one (yes in the background are the other Knex I have put together and that are on display).
Please let me know how it is now.
8 days and the lift will be able to stay in the lobby, until it is finished.
#48
Posted 24 December 2010 - 04:37 PM
Comet Recreation still underway.
Proof you never grow up if you keep playing with toys!
#49
Posted 24 December 2010 - 10:05 PM
Member of a few physics experiments; Orchestrator and/or Copyist for a few musicals.
#50
Posted 24 December 2010 - 10:06 PM
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#51
Posted 26 December 2010 - 06:24 PM
#52
Posted 29 December 2010 - 02:42 PM
Knexrule11:The tubes are not fully connected yet (I still have to disconnect things for a few more days). (Just trying to do some prep work before I am able to actually build.)
ForgotToGrowUp: The dips are more or less fixed. By the gears it still dips slightly, but I have an idea of how I need to fix it.
LaMbChOpZ: The crest is slightly steeper towards the drop. Ran the flexies under the rod for the gears. Should the crest be a true mirror image? I feel like when I look at real coaster crests they get slightly steeper on the drop side. But if it should be a true mirror image I can adjust it.
I appreciate all of the help.
#53
Posted 29 December 2010 - 04:03 PM
If you made it a more consistent curve it would look better.
#54
Posted 04 January 2011 - 04:29 PM
First things first. I built the flat floor, and wow did that make a drastic difference in stiffness. It really does not shake at all.
I have been adjusting and readjusting the crest. It should now be parabolic and even on both sides. I'm hoping it looks like one smooth curve, and the bumps are more or less worked out. I keep getting a bump just before the gears. (I keep steeping back, and away and then going and adjust spots as I see them)
I thought about redo the crest and making the boxes the same so I could add the cross supports, but I like the look of it this way and it really doesn't flex or move the way it is.
Also, because there are not any ties where the gear is, I pushed track splices in the space and it kept the track from dipping there and also keeps the diameter more consistent.
Let me know if there are still any issues, I need to attend to.
Also, I started to work on the drop. I only have about half of it finished. Need to make the next few supports to fit the drop and curve of the track. Also, I know I still have 1 or 2 spots that need to be smoothed out better, I have a straight spot, right after my track strengtheners stop.
And here is the full view of where I am at so far. (ignore the track beyond the support, because it simply drops off).
Thanks again for all of the help so far.
#55
Posted 04 January 2011 - 04:38 PM
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#57
Posted 04 January 2011 - 04:59 PM
|Millennium Force|TTD|El Toro|Bizarro|Maverick|Wildfire|Nitro|
#58
Posted 04 January 2011 - 05:13 PM
Member of a few physics experiments; Orchestrator and/or Copyist for a few musicals.
#59
Posted 04 January 2011 - 06:23 PM
Yes I know there are a few bumps, I am smoothing them out as I see them. I notice them more when I look at the picture than standing in front of it.
Also, is the shape of the crest ok now?
Cheers
#60
Posted 04 January 2011 - 06:30 PM
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